Colourful characters, Maasai Mara and Nairobi

Staying at the Karen Camp was fine.  Toilet, showers, bar, pub grub and a few expats, white Kenyan characters that occassionally pop by in an evening for a few (or more) drinks and a chat.

My first night here before the Mara trip I met a few very colourful characters in the bar: 

Greg was born and breed in Kenya, his grandparents settled over here years ago.  For those who know him he reminded me of Damian Longstaff.  Around the same age, same mannerisms, stories, drinking and smoking and owns some sort of riding school/stables and security firm.

Father Liam (real name Patrick not surprisingly from Ireland).  A missionary who previously spent 12 years in West Africa before coming to Kenya around 8 years ago.  Again seems to be a big drinker and smoker.

Nick, originally from England.  From what I could gather flies a small plane on contract and previously flew for the WFP in Sudan.  Has been living in Tanzania for years and occasionally makes trips to Kenya.  Again big smoker and drinker - seems to be common over here...

I also met a young English couple travelling in Kenya before heading to Cape Town to visit a brother and then onto India where they seem to spend a lot of time.  A few tips were passed my way for when I reach there.

Chris and Alex from Oxford were on the Masai Mara trip and also on the Overland down to Cape Town.  Again nice guys around 26.  I think I'm likely to be one of the older passengers on this journey.

Steve is the driver, Ian the tour leader and Richard is along for this trip to learn the ropes.  He's been driving on the Middle East routes and early next year will be taking over the Nairobi to Jo'Burg one.  A very funny, down to earth lot, so I think there will be quite a few laughs and stories to tell at the end.

Monday Chris, Alex and myself headed off for the Masai Mara safari.  Simley picked us up and dropped us at the Gametrackers office in Nairobi.  Two women from Bristol were also doing a safari for a few weeks and was nice to chat while all the usual formalities were carried out.

Rufus was our driver and guide and Simon our cook (and very good he was to).  Another guy, Toby (a teacher living in Saudi) joined the trip and hardly said a word the entire time.  Very wierd bloke, 'special' Alex called him.  Not that he wasn't intelligent, but the type of person you don't usually meet.

We headed out of Nairobi around 10:00am and stopped for lunch on the way in the Rift Valley.  Was great to see part of it.  Ever since studying Archeaology at Uni I've wanted to visit it and will be seeing a lot more of it on the overland journey.  Fab.  We arrived in the Masai Mara around 3-4ish and had a bit of a drive in the landy to see what was around.  Loads of zebra, wildebeest, water buffalo, gazelle of varying kinds, elephants, giraffes, all sorts of birds which Chris was very excited about.  It seems he's suddenly become a bird watcher since arriving.  It was great seeing the animals shown on the various wildlife programmes back home and getting pretty close to them.  I wonder if I'm too old to embark on a career as a wildlife photographer. lol

We stayed in small cabins, very basic amenities with some locals patrolling in the night for any wild animals that may wander in.  Which they did, mainly elephants and baboons.  Was a bit worrying going to the loo in the middle of the night.  I've never peed so quick in my entire life, especially when I could hear hyenas in the distance.

Each day started around 6:30 when we would have some fried egg and toast, fruit and tea/coffee for breakfast.  A few hours game drive then back to camp for lunch (salad, stew, potatoes of varying kinds and fruit) at 1.  A bit of a siesta for a few hours then out again at 4ish returning 6:30-7 for dinner (rice or pasta, salad, fish, meat for the carnivores and fruit).  It was good camping food and more than I had eaten in a while. lol

The first morning we headed out at 7am and again saw many of the same animals grazing and wandering about.  I was surprised to still see quite a few wildebeest, as the main migration was a few months ago.  Rufus did point out that there weren't many left compared to before when the entire area is full with them.  The remaining ones seem to be lagging behind for some reason.  Maybe they really don't want to attempt the river crossing and play british bulldog with the crocs and leaving it to the last minute.  I wouldn't fancy it.  Have to admit though, they don't seem to be the most intelligent of animals.  Maybe the intelligent ones headed off with safety in numbers in mind.

Highlight of the morning was seeing a cheetah and her cub eating a fresh kill.  Amazing.  I love cheetahs and was fantastic to see them.  We also saw three lionesses lazing about after a big feed and some hyenas.  Hyenas give me the creeps, ever since I saw them in a night safari in Singapore and one of them stared me out. lol.  Nasty things that you know would just love to have a go at you.
In the afternoon we saw a male lion and lioness resting.  Suddenly the male started mating with the female.  Not something I'd even thought I'd see.  The lioness seemed a bit bored and it lasted all of about 15 seconds.  Apparently they'll do this about 7 times an hour so it's no wonder she looked fed up. lol

The following morning we headed in a different direction to the river and saw what remained of the wildebeest who were very unfortunate in the crossing.  Carcassess and vultures everywhere.  Very smelling to say the least.  A guard took us on a short walk a bit further up river where we saw the culprits.  Huge crocodiles sunning themselves on the banks waiting for the next round.  Hippos were also swimming about and they are absolutely enormous.  I knew they grew to be big but bloody hell, no wonder they are one of the main human killers in Africa.  Getting in between a few of them and the water you'd have no chance.

Apparently the hippos rule the waters and the crocs keep their distance.  Hippos have been know to snap a croc in half with their very big and powerful jaws.  Out of the water is a different matter.  Slow and steady with lions sometimes attacking them.

One the way back to camp Alex spotted a very cute Serval cat.  Gorgeous little thing sitting in the grass looking around.

That night there was a hell of a ruckas going on near the Massai village.  Dogs barking, humans shouting and the dreaded sound of hyenas.  The locals must have been trying to chase them off away from their homes and cattle.  At one point there was a big splash in the river next to camp and something large running across it.  Not something that lets to an easy sleep or toilet trip.

The rest of the trip was just as exciting and amazing.  Really close up to an elephant herd with a little baby, more lions and cheetahs, hippos wallowing in their own feaces (another smelly sight and if I had been hungry beforehand I certainly wouldn't have been after).  What has to be the higlight of the trip was seeing lionesses hunting  and bringing down a wildebeest.  Fantastic!  Rufus hadn't seen this for a few years so I think we were very lucky.  Just watching them hanker down in the grass, splitting up with two heading out to the sides and the chase.  The chase didn't last long but it was amazing to watch.  As soon as the prey was down the male lion was right in while the successful female kept a firm grip on the wildebeest's throat. 

Unfortunately we didn't come across any Leopards or Rhinos but they are very hard to track down so hopefully later on the overland trip I'll have a chance to see them.

Thursday we headed back to Nairobi and arrived at Karen Camp around 5ish.  A few drinks in the evening and chatting with a few who will be on the overland trip, a couple Tom and Sarah were staying in the same place.  I'd previously been in touch with Tom via facebook.  He'd set up a group page for everyone travelling.

Later in the evening I was talking with an American woman, Nancy, who had just come from Malawi.  She didn't have much of a good word for the place, but then she'd been ill with dysentry for 3 weeks apparently.  I'm hoping I'll enjoy it more, especially as I'll be spending my birthday and xmas there.

Nairobi is not a place I'll be in a hurry to come back to.  I feel uncomfortable there, not helped by Greg having a call from the police on Sunday evening saying there had been a raid on a house compound in Karen by 12 armed robbers.  Two Europeans and a security guard shot dead.  Apparently it happens quite often.  I know some European families have been here for generations and love the country but not a place I'd like to live.  Their big houses with electric fencing and security guards.  I'm more of a nice quite safe area type of girl where I don't have to worry about getting electric fencing and paying a security company to stand guard.

So in all a good start to the next part of my trip.  The big 3 month overland to Jo'burg begins on the 20th Nov.  What an adventure!

Until the next time

Sam x