The beach camp we stayed at in Dar Es Salaam was on a peninsular we had to get a ferry across to. A lovely spot and nice to chill in the sea breeze. The only problem was that it is too dangerous to walk outside the main gates on your own as several foreigners had been mugged by armed robbers. It was a little worrying at first since the beach is open and seemingly any old bod could wander past. However, we soon learned that the place was guarded by Masai warriors and nobody messes with them.
The lady who runs the camp with her husband also designs clothes and not having been shopping for ages I couldn’t resist a peek. Half hour, 2 dresses and a bag later I was satisfied.
In the morning we headed over to Zanzibar. A shortish wait at the ferry lounge with a dubious breakfast and we boarded for a 2 and half hour trip. As seems to be the usual with transport in many countries, more tickets were sold than there were seats. Luckily a few of us girls managed to grab a row of seats where many of the others left their bags for safe keeping. A few managed to argue with a steward and get seats in 1st class. I think the rest wandered about sharing seats every now and then.
Suitably seated and comfy I proceeded to listen to my iPod for the duration of the trip whilst the other girls nodded off. Becci, love her, felt very seasick, not helped by sitting right next to a door leading out onto the front deck with numerous kids trying unsuccessfully to open and close the door properly.
At last we arrived and proceeded through immigration at Zanzibar. Even though it is part of Tanzania we had to complete immigration forms and present our passports which didn’t take as long as some borders and soon we were off to our hotel and air-con! Yay! I was sharing a room with Maria-Louisa, had a shower and rest before heading out with a few of the others to Mercury’s bar (named after Freddie) for pizza. A lovely sport right by the sea and even though the pizzas took a little too long to arrive they were lush.
After being fed and watered the three of us Sams had a bit of a wander through the narrow streets of Stone Town popped in a few shops and got lost. Several stops to get directions and we eventually found our way back to the hotel for a short pit stop before heading to Africa House for sunset cocktails. Very nice.
The following day several of us went off on a spice tour while the others took the lead and headed to the beach where we would be staying for the next few days. The spice tour was very good and informative and also included some of the slave history that occurred on the island.
We arrived at the beach resort mid afternoon and were surprised at how nice the ‘cheapish’ rooms were and how quiet and lovely the area was. I’m not much of a beach person but a few days here was heaven. Just to be able to stay in one place and relax was a blessing and not having to get up at stupid o’clock and sit on the truck for hours of driving. One of the first things I did was have a pedicure and massage :-).
The sea was beautiful, aqua marine, clear and cool. As you can imagine a lot of time was spent floating in the
water and sitting on the beach. Some of the more active members of the group went diving for a day and others went snorkelling.
I opted out on both of these because I had discovered a little while before that I was pregnant. Blimey! Bit of a surprise and not exactly the greatest of timings but I was (and am) very happy when I found out. Time to change travel plans as I did not want to risk the baby and continue the overland or later the backpacking through India type of travel. May have been fine but you never know. Will have to complete that part of my trip in a few years and take the little one along when he/she is old enough. With kid will travel...
I decided to fly back to Ghana for a couple of months before returning to the UK. Several phone calls with STA Travel to re-arrange my flights and all sorted. Fly to Ghana just before Xmas then onto the UK the end of Feb. Now to try sorting visa on arrival at Ghana...this was more difficult than expected to say the least and wasn’t really sorted until the last minute.
So my adventure is completely changing and I’ll be embarking on a different kind of journey which I’m sure will also use up all my money. Lol. Happy days.
The relaxing time on Zanzibar was well received and needed by all of us but unfortunately couldn’t last. After
5 days we were heading back to Dar Es Salaam and the ‘don’t leave the grounds’ beach camp. It was to be my last truck meal and few hours with the gang. All a bit emotional to be honest. After spending 5-6 weeks with most of them 24/7 it was like leaving family. We will be keeping in touch and hopefully at some point meet up in the future.
I’d arranged a taxi to take me to the airport and off I went after sad goodbyes. If you ever think about flying out of Dar Es Salaam, don’t. It has got to be one of the most boring, basic airports I have ever been in. It was dark when I arrived so have no idea what facilities may be outside but once in through the door there is absolutely nothing. I had several mind numbingly boring hours waiting for my check-in with Ethiopian Airlines (changing in Addis Ababa). If it wasn’t for my iPod I think I might have just lost it and gone completely stir crazy and ended up in a Tanzanian jail for months.
Eventually I could check-in and proceed through to passport control and another hour or so wait. While doing so I just happened to notice my luggage tag and boarding pass were only as far as Addis Ababa. Strange...I went back to the check-in desk (passport control were very nice to let me back through) and everything was changed to head onto Accra. Phew! I still had no boarding pass for the second part of the trip but was told they would give me this in Addis.
When the flight was called to board I found out that it was probably the smallest plane I have ever been on, apart from the Cessna I jumped out of. A propeller style plane that I wasn’t sure would even get off the ground let alone fly to Ethiopia in 3 odd hours. However, my fears were uncalled for and after a brief stop at Zanzibar airport to drop off around 4 passengers and let one on board we arrived safely in Addis Ababa...all 10 of us!
On the down side due to the delay of the flight I missed my connecting flight onto Accra and spent several painstaking hours trying to find out if my luggage had gone on or was somewhere in Addis airport and arrange a seat on the next flight which was the following day. My luggage was nowhere to be found and I was not a happy bunny. With only the clothes I was wearing and a few bits in my hand luggage I had nothing and preceded to the hotel the airline was putting me in for the night. The room I was given did make me feel a little better...a very nice suite on the top floor with a huge comfy bed.
So having probably the best night’s sleep in months, I had breakfast in the hotel where I met a German lady would had 6 kids and worked for the UN and headed back to the airport to catch the plane to Accra. With the number of people at the hotel and on the shuttle bus to the airport, I have a feeling missed flights and ‘airline cock-ups’ happen a lot. I bet the hotel loves it.
Again several hours wait and at last I was on a plane and heading to Accra. Yay! It was my birthday as well. I can think of many things I would have preferred to be doing.
The flight was uneventful, however immigration and trying to sort visa on arrival was not. Immigration officers really do seem to be a miserable bunch of people. Eventually it was sorted after a $50 back hander and out to hopefully find my rucksack. It was there, yay! I was very surprised as I thought it was in that dark black dimension between airports where luggage disappears never to be seen ever again. Thankfully not so with visa and luggage I headed out.
So after 5/6 weeks of Eastern Africa, wildlife, truck life, camping and finding out I’m pregnant, I’m back in Ghana and it is good to be back :-)
Bye
Sam xxx
Saturday, January 8, 2011
Back in Karen Camp, newbbies on the truck and Tanzania
Apologies I'm trying to catch-up, I haven't been online for weeks...
One thing I forgot to mention in a previous post was while in Uganda we visited an orphanage near Kabale where the crew sponsor a number of kids through school and give old clothes, sleeping bags etc that passengers leave on the truck. The guy and a neighbour who run the orphange gave up their houses to take in the kids and look after them. A lovely little place with beautiful views of the lake and islands.
After crossing the lake in a long boat and trekking up what seemed to be the biggest hill ever we arrived and found the kids ready and waiting to sing and dance for us. It was fab, lots of dancing and participation form us lot as well. Everyone really enjoyed it.
After a spot of lunch they kindly prepared, we continued to the top of the hill to see the spectacular view of the lake and islands before heading back down to the boat. Luckily noone’s built some kind of holiday bungalows/hotel there and spoilt the place. They could prob charge a small fortune for that view. Stunning.
As we jumped on the boat or in some cases nervously stepped then fell into a heap and started to head out onto the lake, someone shouted, ‘Where’s Chris and Sade?’. Not on the boat obviously...so much for checking to make sure your tent buddy hasn’t been left behind and that everyone is present. We started to head back and saw them strolling down the hill as if they had all the time in the world. Then they realised we had started off without them and it was quite funny to see their expressions and arm waving. Luckily we hadn’t travelled too far across the lake and it didn’t take long to pick them up and a worrying amount of locals all crammed onto the boat. I’m surprised it didn’t sink.
After dropping off the locals we continued a little way to a camp where we could have a drink and swim, some even braved the precarious climb up a tree and jump from a platform about 15m above the water. The water was a bit cold to start but nice to wash off the dust and dirt that always seems to accumulate within seconds.
Before leaving Kabale we all donated money for the orphange and raised around $1200 between us. Fantastic!
Surprisingly it was quite nice to be back at Karen Camp, prob more to the fact that I wasn’t camping and a short taxi ride brings you to a decent supermarket and internet cafe. A few of the girls went shopping and bought a few second hand dresses from the market. Harriet put hers on for dinner until someone mentioned that it probably needed washing and may have fleas.
Two nights were spent in Karen before picking up some newbbies and heading south to Tanzania. The new guys are great and everyone has been getting along really well. There are now 20 of us in the back of the truck and not as cramped and awkward as I thought it would be.
There are now three Sams on the truck, Sam E, Sam C and me. We’re about the same age as well and the oldest of the lot. Bit weird. Lol
Our first stop in Tanzania was Arusha. We stayed in Snake Park campsite where it seems most overland trips stop and many people who climb Kilimanjaro. An interesting place run by Ma and her son for around 18 years. Crocodile pits and snakes attract a number of locals and foreigners and I was morbidly interested in a green mamba licking two small chicks and trying to eat them. I felt sorry for the chicks who must have known what was going on and just huddled together shaking but I couldn’t help watching. I stayed there for about 10 mins until I wondered if the snake would ever get round to be successful in eating them or just lick them to death. I am wondering whether it was a young snake inexperienced in the art of eating chicks but maybe it does take forever for them to eat even when the meal isn’t running away and only moves it’s head slightly when a snake tries to put it in it’s mouth.
In the morning we visited Lake Mynara and had a bit of a game drive. The following day we were up at dawn to head to Ngorongoro Crater. As we drove around the rim of the crater it felt like we were in Jurassic Park or some sort of movie with scentists exploring new territories where in the beginning they are travelling through loads of mist and fog and not able to see further than about 10 metres . Trees half hidden by mist until we headed down and could see the floor of the crater. Amazing and very atmospheric. Luckily no King Kong type creature at the end of it.
The usual animals were seen, antelope, buffalo, lion, jackals, flamingo and hyeena. Not as spectacular in terms of animals as the Masai Mara but still a great place to be and drive around. After a few hours and a bite to eat a few of us headed back to camp while the rest went onto bush camp in the Serengeti.
The next day those of us at camp took a local bus into Arusha town. The small buses are similar to the tro-tros in Ghana and they try and cram as many people in as possible. A trip around the market, quick stop at the internet cafe then lunch and supermarket. Alex and I tried to find the Courts where the Rwandan genocide trials are being held and all the info about them but unfortunately we couldn’t find the place and it was Sunday so prob not open anyway.
The bus ride back was interesting. Poor Alex was stuck in the back right corner, his 6ft 3” body folded in half and head bent to one side to avoid being bashed against the roof at every bump. The rest of us weren’t too comfy sitting next to him either as the driver and mate managed to pile on 25 people. Some were standing near the door half bent over seated passengers. Occasionally the bus would stop to let someone off and amazingly even more people on.
We eventually arrived intact back at camp and had a bit of a lie down before cook group and the others turned up. Also time to pick up our much needed laundry.
The following day we had a few hours to spare in Arusha before heading down to Dar Es Salaam stopping over at a very small campsite in a village on the way. The evening’s enterntainment being a group of local men and women singing, dancing and playing various musical instruments. Very enjoyable. An early night and early start to get to Dar Es Salaam and the beach camp where we’d leave the truck and head over to Zanzibar.
Bloody insect bites!!
Ttfn
Sam xxx
One thing I forgot to mention in a previous post was while in Uganda we visited an orphanage near Kabale where the crew sponsor a number of kids through school and give old clothes, sleeping bags etc that passengers leave on the truck. The guy and a neighbour who run the orphange gave up their houses to take in the kids and look after them. A lovely little place with beautiful views of the lake and islands.
After crossing the lake in a long boat and trekking up what seemed to be the biggest hill ever we arrived and found the kids ready and waiting to sing and dance for us. It was fab, lots of dancing and participation form us lot as well. Everyone really enjoyed it.
After a spot of lunch they kindly prepared, we continued to the top of the hill to see the spectacular view of the lake and islands before heading back down to the boat. Luckily noone’s built some kind of holiday bungalows/hotel there and spoilt the place. They could prob charge a small fortune for that view. Stunning.
As we jumped on the boat or in some cases nervously stepped then fell into a heap and started to head out onto the lake, someone shouted, ‘Where’s Chris and Sade?’. Not on the boat obviously...so much for checking to make sure your tent buddy hasn’t been left behind and that everyone is present. We started to head back and saw them strolling down the hill as if they had all the time in the world. Then they realised we had started off without them and it was quite funny to see their expressions and arm waving. Luckily we hadn’t travelled too far across the lake and it didn’t take long to pick them up and a worrying amount of locals all crammed onto the boat. I’m surprised it didn’t sink.
After dropping off the locals we continued a little way to a camp where we could have a drink and swim, some even braved the precarious climb up a tree and jump from a platform about 15m above the water. The water was a bit cold to start but nice to wash off the dust and dirt that always seems to accumulate within seconds.
Before leaving Kabale we all donated money for the orphange and raised around $1200 between us. Fantastic!
Surprisingly it was quite nice to be back at Karen Camp, prob more to the fact that I wasn’t camping and a short taxi ride brings you to a decent supermarket and internet cafe. A few of the girls went shopping and bought a few second hand dresses from the market. Harriet put hers on for dinner until someone mentioned that it probably needed washing and may have fleas.
Two nights were spent in Karen before picking up some newbbies and heading south to Tanzania. The new guys are great and everyone has been getting along really well. There are now 20 of us in the back of the truck and not as cramped and awkward as I thought it would be.
There are now three Sams on the truck, Sam E, Sam C and me. We’re about the same age as well and the oldest of the lot. Bit weird. Lol
Our first stop in Tanzania was Arusha. We stayed in Snake Park campsite where it seems most overland trips stop and many people who climb Kilimanjaro. An interesting place run by Ma and her son for around 18 years. Crocodile pits and snakes attract a number of locals and foreigners and I was morbidly interested in a green mamba licking two small chicks and trying to eat them. I felt sorry for the chicks who must have known what was going on and just huddled together shaking but I couldn’t help watching. I stayed there for about 10 mins until I wondered if the snake would ever get round to be successful in eating them or just lick them to death. I am wondering whether it was a young snake inexperienced in the art of eating chicks but maybe it does take forever for them to eat even when the meal isn’t running away and only moves it’s head slightly when a snake tries to put it in it’s mouth.
In the morning we visited Lake Mynara and had a bit of a game drive. The following day we were up at dawn to head to Ngorongoro Crater. As we drove around the rim of the crater it felt like we were in Jurassic Park or some sort of movie with scentists exploring new territories where in the beginning they are travelling through loads of mist and fog and not able to see further than about 10 metres . Trees half hidden by mist until we headed down and could see the floor of the crater. Amazing and very atmospheric. Luckily no King Kong type creature at the end of it.
The usual animals were seen, antelope, buffalo, lion, jackals, flamingo and hyeena. Not as spectacular in terms of animals as the Masai Mara but still a great place to be and drive around. After a few hours and a bite to eat a few of us headed back to camp while the rest went onto bush camp in the Serengeti.
The next day those of us at camp took a local bus into Arusha town. The small buses are similar to the tro-tros in Ghana and they try and cram as many people in as possible. A trip around the market, quick stop at the internet cafe then lunch and supermarket. Alex and I tried to find the Courts where the Rwandan genocide trials are being held and all the info about them but unfortunately we couldn’t find the place and it was Sunday so prob not open anyway.
The bus ride back was interesting. Poor Alex was stuck in the back right corner, his 6ft 3” body folded in half and head bent to one side to avoid being bashed against the roof at every bump. The rest of us weren’t too comfy sitting next to him either as the driver and mate managed to pile on 25 people. Some were standing near the door half bent over seated passengers. Occasionally the bus would stop to let someone off and amazingly even more people on.
We eventually arrived intact back at camp and had a bit of a lie down before cook group and the others turned up. Also time to pick up our much needed laundry.
The following day we had a few hours to spare in Arusha before heading down to Dar Es Salaam stopping over at a very small campsite in a village on the way. The evening’s enterntainment being a group of local men and women singing, dancing and playing various musical instruments. Very enjoyable. An early night and early start to get to Dar Es Salaam and the beach camp where we’d leave the truck and head over to Zanzibar.
Bloody insect bites!!
Ttfn
Sam xxx
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