The beach camp we stayed at in Dar Es Salaam was on a peninsular we had to get a ferry across to. A lovely spot and nice to chill in the sea breeze. The only problem was that it is too dangerous to walk outside the main gates on your own as several foreigners had been mugged by armed robbers. It was a little worrying at first since the beach is open and seemingly any old bod could wander past. However, we soon learned that the place was guarded by Masai warriors and nobody messes with them.
The lady who runs the camp with her husband also designs clothes and not having been shopping for ages I couldn’t resist a peek. Half hour, 2 dresses and a bag later I was satisfied.
In the morning we headed over to Zanzibar. A shortish wait at the ferry lounge with a dubious breakfast and we boarded for a 2 and half hour trip. As seems to be the usual with transport in many countries, more tickets were sold than there were seats. Luckily a few of us girls managed to grab a row of seats where many of the others left their bags for safe keeping. A few managed to argue with a steward and get seats in 1st class. I think the rest wandered about sharing seats every now and then.
Suitably seated and comfy I proceeded to listen to my iPod for the duration of the trip whilst the other girls nodded off. Becci, love her, felt very seasick, not helped by sitting right next to a door leading out onto the front deck with numerous kids trying unsuccessfully to open and close the door properly.
At last we arrived and proceeded through immigration at Zanzibar. Even though it is part of Tanzania we had to complete immigration forms and present our passports which didn’t take as long as some borders and soon we were off to our hotel and air-con! Yay! I was sharing a room with Maria-Louisa, had a shower and rest before heading out with a few of the others to Mercury’s bar (named after Freddie) for pizza. A lovely sport right by the sea and even though the pizzas took a little too long to arrive they were lush.
After being fed and watered the three of us Sams had a bit of a wander through the narrow streets of Stone Town popped in a few shops and got lost. Several stops to get directions and we eventually found our way back to the hotel for a short pit stop before heading to Africa House for sunset cocktails. Very nice.
The following day several of us went off on a spice tour while the others took the lead and headed to the beach where we would be staying for the next few days. The spice tour was very good and informative and also included some of the slave history that occurred on the island.
We arrived at the beach resort mid afternoon and were surprised at how nice the ‘cheapish’ rooms were and how quiet and lovely the area was. I’m not much of a beach person but a few days here was heaven. Just to be able to stay in one place and relax was a blessing and not having to get up at stupid o’clock and sit on the truck for hours of driving. One of the first things I did was have a pedicure and massage :-).
The sea was beautiful, aqua marine, clear and cool. As you can imagine a lot of time was spent floating in the
water and sitting on the beach. Some of the more active members of the group went diving for a day and others went snorkelling.
I opted out on both of these because I had discovered a little while before that I was pregnant. Blimey! Bit of a surprise and not exactly the greatest of timings but I was (and am) very happy when I found out. Time to change travel plans as I did not want to risk the baby and continue the overland or later the backpacking through India type of travel. May have been fine but you never know. Will have to complete that part of my trip in a few years and take the little one along when he/she is old enough. With kid will travel...
I decided to fly back to Ghana for a couple of months before returning to the UK. Several phone calls with STA Travel to re-arrange my flights and all sorted. Fly to Ghana just before Xmas then onto the UK the end of Feb. Now to try sorting visa on arrival at Ghana...this was more difficult than expected to say the least and wasn’t really sorted until the last minute.
So my adventure is completely changing and I’ll be embarking on a different kind of journey which I’m sure will also use up all my money. Lol. Happy days.
The relaxing time on Zanzibar was well received and needed by all of us but unfortunately couldn’t last. After
5 days we were heading back to Dar Es Salaam and the ‘don’t leave the grounds’ beach camp. It was to be my last truck meal and few hours with the gang. All a bit emotional to be honest. After spending 5-6 weeks with most of them 24/7 it was like leaving family. We will be keeping in touch and hopefully at some point meet up in the future.
I’d arranged a taxi to take me to the airport and off I went after sad goodbyes. If you ever think about flying out of Dar Es Salaam, don’t. It has got to be one of the most boring, basic airports I have ever been in. It was dark when I arrived so have no idea what facilities may be outside but once in through the door there is absolutely nothing. I had several mind numbingly boring hours waiting for my check-in with Ethiopian Airlines (changing in Addis Ababa). If it wasn’t for my iPod I think I might have just lost it and gone completely stir crazy and ended up in a Tanzanian jail for months.
Eventually I could check-in and proceed through to passport control and another hour or so wait. While doing so I just happened to notice my luggage tag and boarding pass were only as far as Addis Ababa. Strange...I went back to the check-in desk (passport control were very nice to let me back through) and everything was changed to head onto Accra. Phew! I still had no boarding pass for the second part of the trip but was told they would give me this in Addis.
When the flight was called to board I found out that it was probably the smallest plane I have ever been on, apart from the Cessna I jumped out of. A propeller style plane that I wasn’t sure would even get off the ground let alone fly to Ethiopia in 3 odd hours. However, my fears were uncalled for and after a brief stop at Zanzibar airport to drop off around 4 passengers and let one on board we arrived safely in Addis Ababa...all 10 of us!
On the down side due to the delay of the flight I missed my connecting flight onto Accra and spent several painstaking hours trying to find out if my luggage had gone on or was somewhere in Addis airport and arrange a seat on the next flight which was the following day. My luggage was nowhere to be found and I was not a happy bunny. With only the clothes I was wearing and a few bits in my hand luggage I had nothing and preceded to the hotel the airline was putting me in for the night. The room I was given did make me feel a little better...a very nice suite on the top floor with a huge comfy bed.
So having probably the best night’s sleep in months, I had breakfast in the hotel where I met a German lady would had 6 kids and worked for the UN and headed back to the airport to catch the plane to Accra. With the number of people at the hotel and on the shuttle bus to the airport, I have a feeling missed flights and ‘airline cock-ups’ happen a lot. I bet the hotel loves it.
Again several hours wait and at last I was on a plane and heading to Accra. Yay! It was my birthday as well. I can think of many things I would have preferred to be doing.
The flight was uneventful, however immigration and trying to sort visa on arrival was not. Immigration officers really do seem to be a miserable bunch of people. Eventually it was sorted after a $50 back hander and out to hopefully find my rucksack. It was there, yay! I was very surprised as I thought it was in that dark black dimension between airports where luggage disappears never to be seen ever again. Thankfully not so with visa and luggage I headed out.
So after 5/6 weeks of Eastern Africa, wildlife, truck life, camping and finding out I’m pregnant, I’m back in Ghana and it is good to be back :-)
Bye
Sam xxx
Saturday, January 8, 2011
Back in Karen Camp, newbbies on the truck and Tanzania
Apologies I'm trying to catch-up, I haven't been online for weeks...
One thing I forgot to mention in a previous post was while in Uganda we visited an orphanage near Kabale where the crew sponsor a number of kids through school and give old clothes, sleeping bags etc that passengers leave on the truck. The guy and a neighbour who run the orphange gave up their houses to take in the kids and look after them. A lovely little place with beautiful views of the lake and islands.
After crossing the lake in a long boat and trekking up what seemed to be the biggest hill ever we arrived and found the kids ready and waiting to sing and dance for us. It was fab, lots of dancing and participation form us lot as well. Everyone really enjoyed it.
After a spot of lunch they kindly prepared, we continued to the top of the hill to see the spectacular view of the lake and islands before heading back down to the boat. Luckily noone’s built some kind of holiday bungalows/hotel there and spoilt the place. They could prob charge a small fortune for that view. Stunning.
As we jumped on the boat or in some cases nervously stepped then fell into a heap and started to head out onto the lake, someone shouted, ‘Where’s Chris and Sade?’. Not on the boat obviously...so much for checking to make sure your tent buddy hasn’t been left behind and that everyone is present. We started to head back and saw them strolling down the hill as if they had all the time in the world. Then they realised we had started off without them and it was quite funny to see their expressions and arm waving. Luckily we hadn’t travelled too far across the lake and it didn’t take long to pick them up and a worrying amount of locals all crammed onto the boat. I’m surprised it didn’t sink.
After dropping off the locals we continued a little way to a camp where we could have a drink and swim, some even braved the precarious climb up a tree and jump from a platform about 15m above the water. The water was a bit cold to start but nice to wash off the dust and dirt that always seems to accumulate within seconds.
Before leaving Kabale we all donated money for the orphange and raised around $1200 between us. Fantastic!
Surprisingly it was quite nice to be back at Karen Camp, prob more to the fact that I wasn’t camping and a short taxi ride brings you to a decent supermarket and internet cafe. A few of the girls went shopping and bought a few second hand dresses from the market. Harriet put hers on for dinner until someone mentioned that it probably needed washing and may have fleas.
Two nights were spent in Karen before picking up some newbbies and heading south to Tanzania. The new guys are great and everyone has been getting along really well. There are now 20 of us in the back of the truck and not as cramped and awkward as I thought it would be.
There are now three Sams on the truck, Sam E, Sam C and me. We’re about the same age as well and the oldest of the lot. Bit weird. Lol
Our first stop in Tanzania was Arusha. We stayed in Snake Park campsite where it seems most overland trips stop and many people who climb Kilimanjaro. An interesting place run by Ma and her son for around 18 years. Crocodile pits and snakes attract a number of locals and foreigners and I was morbidly interested in a green mamba licking two small chicks and trying to eat them. I felt sorry for the chicks who must have known what was going on and just huddled together shaking but I couldn’t help watching. I stayed there for about 10 mins until I wondered if the snake would ever get round to be successful in eating them or just lick them to death. I am wondering whether it was a young snake inexperienced in the art of eating chicks but maybe it does take forever for them to eat even when the meal isn’t running away and only moves it’s head slightly when a snake tries to put it in it’s mouth.
In the morning we visited Lake Mynara and had a bit of a game drive. The following day we were up at dawn to head to Ngorongoro Crater. As we drove around the rim of the crater it felt like we were in Jurassic Park or some sort of movie with scentists exploring new territories where in the beginning they are travelling through loads of mist and fog and not able to see further than about 10 metres . Trees half hidden by mist until we headed down and could see the floor of the crater. Amazing and very atmospheric. Luckily no King Kong type creature at the end of it.
The usual animals were seen, antelope, buffalo, lion, jackals, flamingo and hyeena. Not as spectacular in terms of animals as the Masai Mara but still a great place to be and drive around. After a few hours and a bite to eat a few of us headed back to camp while the rest went onto bush camp in the Serengeti.
The next day those of us at camp took a local bus into Arusha town. The small buses are similar to the tro-tros in Ghana and they try and cram as many people in as possible. A trip around the market, quick stop at the internet cafe then lunch and supermarket. Alex and I tried to find the Courts where the Rwandan genocide trials are being held and all the info about them but unfortunately we couldn’t find the place and it was Sunday so prob not open anyway.
The bus ride back was interesting. Poor Alex was stuck in the back right corner, his 6ft 3” body folded in half and head bent to one side to avoid being bashed against the roof at every bump. The rest of us weren’t too comfy sitting next to him either as the driver and mate managed to pile on 25 people. Some were standing near the door half bent over seated passengers. Occasionally the bus would stop to let someone off and amazingly even more people on.
We eventually arrived intact back at camp and had a bit of a lie down before cook group and the others turned up. Also time to pick up our much needed laundry.
The following day we had a few hours to spare in Arusha before heading down to Dar Es Salaam stopping over at a very small campsite in a village on the way. The evening’s enterntainment being a group of local men and women singing, dancing and playing various musical instruments. Very enjoyable. An early night and early start to get to Dar Es Salaam and the beach camp where we’d leave the truck and head over to Zanzibar.
Bloody insect bites!!
Ttfn
Sam xxx
One thing I forgot to mention in a previous post was while in Uganda we visited an orphanage near Kabale where the crew sponsor a number of kids through school and give old clothes, sleeping bags etc that passengers leave on the truck. The guy and a neighbour who run the orphange gave up their houses to take in the kids and look after them. A lovely little place with beautiful views of the lake and islands.
After crossing the lake in a long boat and trekking up what seemed to be the biggest hill ever we arrived and found the kids ready and waiting to sing and dance for us. It was fab, lots of dancing and participation form us lot as well. Everyone really enjoyed it.
After a spot of lunch they kindly prepared, we continued to the top of the hill to see the spectacular view of the lake and islands before heading back down to the boat. Luckily noone’s built some kind of holiday bungalows/hotel there and spoilt the place. They could prob charge a small fortune for that view. Stunning.
As we jumped on the boat or in some cases nervously stepped then fell into a heap and started to head out onto the lake, someone shouted, ‘Where’s Chris and Sade?’. Not on the boat obviously...so much for checking to make sure your tent buddy hasn’t been left behind and that everyone is present. We started to head back and saw them strolling down the hill as if they had all the time in the world. Then they realised we had started off without them and it was quite funny to see their expressions and arm waving. Luckily we hadn’t travelled too far across the lake and it didn’t take long to pick them up and a worrying amount of locals all crammed onto the boat. I’m surprised it didn’t sink.
After dropping off the locals we continued a little way to a camp where we could have a drink and swim, some even braved the precarious climb up a tree and jump from a platform about 15m above the water. The water was a bit cold to start but nice to wash off the dust and dirt that always seems to accumulate within seconds.
Before leaving Kabale we all donated money for the orphange and raised around $1200 between us. Fantastic!
Surprisingly it was quite nice to be back at Karen Camp, prob more to the fact that I wasn’t camping and a short taxi ride brings you to a decent supermarket and internet cafe. A few of the girls went shopping and bought a few second hand dresses from the market. Harriet put hers on for dinner until someone mentioned that it probably needed washing and may have fleas.
Two nights were spent in Karen before picking up some newbbies and heading south to Tanzania. The new guys are great and everyone has been getting along really well. There are now 20 of us in the back of the truck and not as cramped and awkward as I thought it would be.
There are now three Sams on the truck, Sam E, Sam C and me. We’re about the same age as well and the oldest of the lot. Bit weird. Lol
Our first stop in Tanzania was Arusha. We stayed in Snake Park campsite where it seems most overland trips stop and many people who climb Kilimanjaro. An interesting place run by Ma and her son for around 18 years. Crocodile pits and snakes attract a number of locals and foreigners and I was morbidly interested in a green mamba licking two small chicks and trying to eat them. I felt sorry for the chicks who must have known what was going on and just huddled together shaking but I couldn’t help watching. I stayed there for about 10 mins until I wondered if the snake would ever get round to be successful in eating them or just lick them to death. I am wondering whether it was a young snake inexperienced in the art of eating chicks but maybe it does take forever for them to eat even when the meal isn’t running away and only moves it’s head slightly when a snake tries to put it in it’s mouth.
In the morning we visited Lake Mynara and had a bit of a game drive. The following day we were up at dawn to head to Ngorongoro Crater. As we drove around the rim of the crater it felt like we were in Jurassic Park or some sort of movie with scentists exploring new territories where in the beginning they are travelling through loads of mist and fog and not able to see further than about 10 metres . Trees half hidden by mist until we headed down and could see the floor of the crater. Amazing and very atmospheric. Luckily no King Kong type creature at the end of it.
The usual animals were seen, antelope, buffalo, lion, jackals, flamingo and hyeena. Not as spectacular in terms of animals as the Masai Mara but still a great place to be and drive around. After a few hours and a bite to eat a few of us headed back to camp while the rest went onto bush camp in the Serengeti.
The next day those of us at camp took a local bus into Arusha town. The small buses are similar to the tro-tros in Ghana and they try and cram as many people in as possible. A trip around the market, quick stop at the internet cafe then lunch and supermarket. Alex and I tried to find the Courts where the Rwandan genocide trials are being held and all the info about them but unfortunately we couldn’t find the place and it was Sunday so prob not open anyway.
The bus ride back was interesting. Poor Alex was stuck in the back right corner, his 6ft 3” body folded in half and head bent to one side to avoid being bashed against the roof at every bump. The rest of us weren’t too comfy sitting next to him either as the driver and mate managed to pile on 25 people. Some were standing near the door half bent over seated passengers. Occasionally the bus would stop to let someone off and amazingly even more people on.
We eventually arrived intact back at camp and had a bit of a lie down before cook group and the others turned up. Also time to pick up our much needed laundry.
The following day we had a few hours to spare in Arusha before heading down to Dar Es Salaam stopping over at a very small campsite in a village on the way. The evening’s enterntainment being a group of local men and women singing, dancing and playing various musical instruments. Very enjoyable. An early night and early start to get to Dar Es Salaam and the beach camp where we’d leave the truck and head over to Zanzibar.
Bloody insect bites!!
Ttfn
Sam xxx
Wednesday, December 8, 2010
Back in Kampala, Jinja rafting and Kenya again
After Kabale we headed towards a bush-site (more like someone's back garden) where we were going to spend the night in. Unfortunately or fortunately depending on how you look at it, during the drive it absolutely hammered down and we ended up back in the Red Chilli Hideaway in Kampala very late at night. I think this was fortunate as hot showers and toilets far out-weigh bush camping experiences after months of cold water showers and weeks of camping. My bed.... :-(
So a late night and again an early start to make our way to Jinja and apparently the 'Adventure capital of Africa!'. I wouldn't necessarily say that but you could do grade 5 white water rafting and kayaking. Our campsite had a good bar and unfortunately loads of ants by the tents, which seemed to congregate in Tom and Sarah's. They ended up sleeping in the truck.
Most of the group went white water rafting the following morning. Bec, Ellena, Tom and I decided to chill out and stay in camp. I wasn't feeling too good and a shame as I have enjoyed white water rafting in the past and it would have been good to do it on the White Nile.
Most of us had handed in bags of dirty clothes for washing thinking they would all be dry by the end of the day. Well nice thought but we didn't take into account the torrential downpour and hail storm that occurred around 12:30. While most were off rafting, the few of us back at camp had no chance to get all the washing off the lines and just sat in the bar, a bit chilly; laughing that again we'd have damp smelly clothes. All of a sudden Tom woke up, saw the monsoon and shouted, 'our tent's open!' and pegged it to the field. Driver Steve was already out cleaning the truck and saw Tom sprinting to his tent. About 10 mins later Tom returned completely sodden, the tent was flooded, his sleeping bag soaked through, but at least the ants were drowning, saying 'Sarah's going to kill me, I may as well have a few drinks and get pissed before she gets back'.
It seems very funny now and at the time it was for the rest of us but poor Tom was a little worried as he had had two tasks to do that day: Sort the tent out and wash the clothes - tent flooded like a mini swimming pool and washed clothes still soaking wet. Great.
Sarah was a little annoyed to say the least when she returned. However, Tom had upgraded to a tented room with beds to try and limit the amount of crap he was going to get from her. It worked to a certain degree but not totally as most of their clothes were hanging up completely soaked.
There were quite a few foreigners at the camp. All doing some sort of rafting or kayaking. The usual adventure seekers :-).
The following day a few of us popped into Jinja town. I had lunch at Indulge and took full advantage of their free wifi. In the evening we were booked on a boat (or more appropriately termed 'booze') cruise up the Nile to Lake Victoria. I have wanted to see Lake Victoria and the source of the Nile for years so it was great to have the opportunity to do so. Unfortunately many of the others were not so interested in where we were but what drinks there were and how many could they 'get down' in the hour and a half we were on the boat. To be fair to them though, it was an all inclusive trip so what do you expect?
It started off relatively civilised but as soon as we were heading back to shore it quickly turned into some sort of drunken teenage outing as if they were away from their parents for the first time and making the most of it. Don't get me wrong, I've had many a drunken nights and probably annoyed many people at the time, but they were generally in towns/cities in the UK or Europe and not by the source of the White Nile and Lake Victoria.
It got worse...the journey back to camp on the bus was hell. The few of us who had not drunk their own body weight in gin or rum were slightly annoyed and embarrassed. Extremely loud drunken singing whilst driving through local villages made me cringe. Absolutely no respect for the locals, many of whom can hardly feed their families let alone waste money on copious amounts of alcohol. If I could have got off the bus and found my own way back to camp I would have. How old do I seem? lol.
That evening the bar showed the video of the rafters for that day and for some the drinking began...Ian I would say was probably the drunkest person there. Dancing to start, then on the tables, then doing a dancing circuit type thing around all the tables in the bar and on the veranda out the back, closely followed by slightly less drunk Tom and Phil. It was very funny until it was discovered that Ian had a big gapping gash on his left shin with blood pouring out. Ouch! The wound is healing well so no cause for concern.
After Jinja we headed across the border back into Kenya staying firstly at Nairobian Campsite where I upgraded to an ensuite room (I needed some comfort) then onto Lake Naivasha for two nights. Carnelly's campsite was good, hot showers, toilets and a decent bar. However ants got the better of us and not wanting to spend the night in infested tents a few of us choose to kip in the truck. Not all that comfy but better than being bitten half to death. We have enough bites from mozzies and the like without extra ones from ants.
Whilst at Lake Naivasha we visited Elsamere for afternoon tea and a short video on the life of Joy Adamson. It was a lovely quiet place and the cakes were lush. lol. A few of us felt a bit sick after eating far too many of them.
Relieved at leaving the ant infested campsite we have made our way back to Nairobi and Karen Camp. Again a few of us have upgraded to dorms as we couldn't be arsed to pitch our tents.
We visited the Giraffe Sanctuary yesterday and had a few laughs feeding them. Some were brave enough to let them feed from their mouths but I didn't fancy having a sticky slobbering giraffe tongue licking my face even if the saliva has antiseptic qualities.
A lazy day for me today. Internet, a bit of reading and maybe a nap for an hour or so.
Apart from the ants and mozzies, insect life seems to be keeping away from us thankfully. There were a load of caterpillars at Lake Naivasha that freaked some people out and one not so little bugger bit me! What's all that about?
Until the next time
Sam xxx
So a late night and again an early start to make our way to Jinja and apparently the 'Adventure capital of Africa!'. I wouldn't necessarily say that but you could do grade 5 white water rafting and kayaking. Our campsite had a good bar and unfortunately loads of ants by the tents, which seemed to congregate in Tom and Sarah's. They ended up sleeping in the truck.
Most of the group went white water rafting the following morning. Bec, Ellena, Tom and I decided to chill out and stay in camp. I wasn't feeling too good and a shame as I have enjoyed white water rafting in the past and it would have been good to do it on the White Nile.
Most of us had handed in bags of dirty clothes for washing thinking they would all be dry by the end of the day. Well nice thought but we didn't take into account the torrential downpour and hail storm that occurred around 12:30. While most were off rafting, the few of us back at camp had no chance to get all the washing off the lines and just sat in the bar, a bit chilly; laughing that again we'd have damp smelly clothes. All of a sudden Tom woke up, saw the monsoon and shouted, 'our tent's open!' and pegged it to the field. Driver Steve was already out cleaning the truck and saw Tom sprinting to his tent. About 10 mins later Tom returned completely sodden, the tent was flooded, his sleeping bag soaked through, but at least the ants were drowning, saying 'Sarah's going to kill me, I may as well have a few drinks and get pissed before she gets back'.
It seems very funny now and at the time it was for the rest of us but poor Tom was a little worried as he had had two tasks to do that day: Sort the tent out and wash the clothes - tent flooded like a mini swimming pool and washed clothes still soaking wet. Great.
Sarah was a little annoyed to say the least when she returned. However, Tom had upgraded to a tented room with beds to try and limit the amount of crap he was going to get from her. It worked to a certain degree but not totally as most of their clothes were hanging up completely soaked.
There were quite a few foreigners at the camp. All doing some sort of rafting or kayaking. The usual adventure seekers :-).
The following day a few of us popped into Jinja town. I had lunch at Indulge and took full advantage of their free wifi. In the evening we were booked on a boat (or more appropriately termed 'booze') cruise up the Nile to Lake Victoria. I have wanted to see Lake Victoria and the source of the Nile for years so it was great to have the opportunity to do so. Unfortunately many of the others were not so interested in where we were but what drinks there were and how many could they 'get down' in the hour and a half we were on the boat. To be fair to them though, it was an all inclusive trip so what do you expect?
It started off relatively civilised but as soon as we were heading back to shore it quickly turned into some sort of drunken teenage outing as if they were away from their parents for the first time and making the most of it. Don't get me wrong, I've had many a drunken nights and probably annoyed many people at the time, but they were generally in towns/cities in the UK or Europe and not by the source of the White Nile and Lake Victoria.
It got worse...the journey back to camp on the bus was hell. The few of us who had not drunk their own body weight in gin or rum were slightly annoyed and embarrassed. Extremely loud drunken singing whilst driving through local villages made me cringe. Absolutely no respect for the locals, many of whom can hardly feed their families let alone waste money on copious amounts of alcohol. If I could have got off the bus and found my own way back to camp I would have. How old do I seem? lol.
That evening the bar showed the video of the rafters for that day and for some the drinking began...Ian I would say was probably the drunkest person there. Dancing to start, then on the tables, then doing a dancing circuit type thing around all the tables in the bar and on the veranda out the back, closely followed by slightly less drunk Tom and Phil. It was very funny until it was discovered that Ian had a big gapping gash on his left shin with blood pouring out. Ouch! The wound is healing well so no cause for concern.
After Jinja we headed across the border back into Kenya staying firstly at Nairobian Campsite where I upgraded to an ensuite room (I needed some comfort) then onto Lake Naivasha for two nights. Carnelly's campsite was good, hot showers, toilets and a decent bar. However ants got the better of us and not wanting to spend the night in infested tents a few of us choose to kip in the truck. Not all that comfy but better than being bitten half to death. We have enough bites from mozzies and the like without extra ones from ants.
Whilst at Lake Naivasha we visited Elsamere for afternoon tea and a short video on the life of Joy Adamson. It was a lovely quiet place and the cakes were lush. lol. A few of us felt a bit sick after eating far too many of them.
Relieved at leaving the ant infested campsite we have made our way back to Nairobi and Karen Camp. Again a few of us have upgraded to dorms as we couldn't be arsed to pitch our tents.
We visited the Giraffe Sanctuary yesterday and had a few laughs feeding them. Some were brave enough to let them feed from their mouths but I didn't fancy having a sticky slobbering giraffe tongue licking my face even if the saliva has antiseptic qualities.
A lazy day for me today. Internet, a bit of reading and maybe a nap for an hour or so.
Apart from the ants and mozzies, insect life seems to be keeping away from us thankfully. There were a load of caterpillars at Lake Naivasha that freaked some people out and one not so little bugger bit me! What's all that about?
Until the next time
Sam xxx
Friday, December 3, 2010
Gorillas in the mist, truck life and lush bakery
Our first full day in Rwanda was taken up with a trek to see the only remaining mountain gorillas. This is mainly what the first part of the trip is for and definitely one of my must do's along the way. It is quite pricey at around $300/400 but what an experience!
We were picked up around 8am and driven to the starting point where, to my surprise there were quite a few groups of people all waiting to start trekking. I wasn't expecting so many people, however there are around 8 or 9 gorilla families and 8 people are allowed to view one family for exactly one hour per day. A few families are out of bounds to tourists and are only approached for various study and conservation purposes.
Six of us were in a group with a couple from the states and a great guide called Augustin. He briefly explained which family of gorillas we would be trekking to see, what to do and what not to do. Basically, keep quiet, no sudden movements and no running away if a silverback looks like he's going to charge. Easier said than done!
All eager to start we set off towards a part of the national park where the Umubano family of gorillas were last seen. I decided to hire a porter to carry my bag which turned out to be $10 well spent. As well as our guide Augustin, there were two porters and a guy with a rifle looking out for buffalo and poachers, who they'll shoot and ask questions later. The porters used to be poachers but have changed their ways and now help unfit tourists like me.
Some of the trek was difficult to say the least. Muddy, slippery, steep slopes heading up further into the mountains and mist. On top of that were the numerous thistle and stingy nettle plants to try and avoid that made many of us yell out with various expletives. We did have regular breaks to catch our breath and at least due to the mist it was quite cool.
After what seemed to be a very long hour and a half we were asked to set down our bags and walking sticks as the gorillas were not far ahead. Fantastic, not the hours and hours of trekking we heard some had gone through and excitement set in.
A short stumble through bamboo and undergrowth and there they were. A massive silverback, 'Charles', and his family. The hour we spent watching them was one of the most amazing experiences of my life. I took some photos then sat and just watched them and their behaviours. At one point Charles was laying back, relaxing with his head resting on his left arm, eyes closed reminding me of my gramp after Sunday lunch sleeping in a chair or sofa.
The guide and trackers made grunting noises every now and then as a way of communicating with the gorillas, saying 'hello' and telling them we were friendly. They didn't seem at all bothered about us being there and I was surprised at how close we were. Only about 4 metres. There were a couple of nervy moments though, especially when they weren't responding to the trackers' grunts, making loud noises with Charles looking like he was annoyed and going to rush straight toward us. What were we told?...Stand your ground, crouch down, don't run....clean underwear anyone?
The babies and young gorillas were soo cute looking like black balls of fur. One adolescent thought it was a good idea to roll 10 metres down the mountain and jump onto the back of one of the trackers. Bit of a surprise and right next to Bec and me. Another potential heart attack moment but thankfully not much harm done (the tracker did have a few scratches) and only a passing glance from Charles who was probably thinking, 'junior is up to his tricks again, scaring the nosey humans'.
The hour flew by and it was sad to leave the gorilla family, but necessary to make sure they don't get too used to humans being around. Although they seem to be pretty used to us anyway. A fantastic morning and probably the most exercise I've done in a year. The rest of the day basically just involved a kip and a beer before heading out to the town for a bite to eat. Not bad food at a local b&b but they tried to overcharge us. Apparently they've tried to do this before on a previously trip. They're not really helping themselves and only looking at the short term. Now the Oasis trucks will never go back there and pass the word around other overland trucks. The food was nice and if they hadn't tried to overcharge then they could have got a fair amount of visitors passing by from overland trips in the future.
The next day we headed back to Uganda and stayed in Kabale. A small town with a fair few internet cafes, backpacker type accommodation and a fab bakery selling donuts, various pasties, samosas, pizza and many different types of cake. Funnily enough the place was quite busy when we were staying there.
Life on the truck is varied to say the least. On early drives most of us are asleep or trying to sleep through the very bumpy roads. When we have a later start there's an amount of childish revelry going on consisting of 'piggy in the middle', trying to hop on one leg - which is quite difficult when the truck is constantly moving from left to right to avoid pot holes and bumps or having no choice but to go over them. I have to say I've stayed out of these games, mainly because I can't be arsed and prefer reading or listening to my iPod. I think the age difference is showing through.
Talking about iPods, the other day I was DJ Sam on a 7-8 hour drive. I think I might go into retirement as I had no sleep or rest really and was shattered when we eventually reached camp.
Fellow passengers on the truck so far are:
Ellena, my tent buddy and youngest amongst the group at 21. Becca, a lovely Aussie who likes a bit of a drink and gets very loud after a few of them. Chris and Alex I've mentioned in a previous post, who were also on the Masai Mara trip. Chris is a teacher and Alex is a biochemist. Tom and Sarah, also previously mentioned are a couple from Kent. Tom is an artist and does bathroom fitting to get cash and Sarah is a designer. Harriet and Kate are two 23 year olds who graduated from Cambridge with law degrees and as far as I know aren't working yet. Harriet very much likes attention. lol. Steve, 33 is another Aussie and works in Project Management as a contractor. Phil, 27 is a Business Analyst from Manchester. Sade, another Aussie also likes attention and I've no idea what she does for a living.
A good bunch.
Bye for now
Sam xx
We were picked up around 8am and driven to the starting point where, to my surprise there were quite a few groups of people all waiting to start trekking. I wasn't expecting so many people, however there are around 8 or 9 gorilla families and 8 people are allowed to view one family for exactly one hour per day. A few families are out of bounds to tourists and are only approached for various study and conservation purposes.
Six of us were in a group with a couple from the states and a great guide called Augustin. He briefly explained which family of gorillas we would be trekking to see, what to do and what not to do. Basically, keep quiet, no sudden movements and no running away if a silverback looks like he's going to charge. Easier said than done!
All eager to start we set off towards a part of the national park where the Umubano family of gorillas were last seen. I decided to hire a porter to carry my bag which turned out to be $10 well spent. As well as our guide Augustin, there were two porters and a guy with a rifle looking out for buffalo and poachers, who they'll shoot and ask questions later. The porters used to be poachers but have changed their ways and now help unfit tourists like me.
Some of the trek was difficult to say the least. Muddy, slippery, steep slopes heading up further into the mountains and mist. On top of that were the numerous thistle and stingy nettle plants to try and avoid that made many of us yell out with various expletives. We did have regular breaks to catch our breath and at least due to the mist it was quite cool.
After what seemed to be a very long hour and a half we were asked to set down our bags and walking sticks as the gorillas were not far ahead. Fantastic, not the hours and hours of trekking we heard some had gone through and excitement set in.
A short stumble through bamboo and undergrowth and there they were. A massive silverback, 'Charles', and his family. The hour we spent watching them was one of the most amazing experiences of my life. I took some photos then sat and just watched them and their behaviours. At one point Charles was laying back, relaxing with his head resting on his left arm, eyes closed reminding me of my gramp after Sunday lunch sleeping in a chair or sofa.
The guide and trackers made grunting noises every now and then as a way of communicating with the gorillas, saying 'hello' and telling them we were friendly. They didn't seem at all bothered about us being there and I was surprised at how close we were. Only about 4 metres. There were a couple of nervy moments though, especially when they weren't responding to the trackers' grunts, making loud noises with Charles looking like he was annoyed and going to rush straight toward us. What were we told?...Stand your ground, crouch down, don't run....clean underwear anyone?
The babies and young gorillas were soo cute looking like black balls of fur. One adolescent thought it was a good idea to roll 10 metres down the mountain and jump onto the back of one of the trackers. Bit of a surprise and right next to Bec and me. Another potential heart attack moment but thankfully not much harm done (the tracker did have a few scratches) and only a passing glance from Charles who was probably thinking, 'junior is up to his tricks again, scaring the nosey humans'.
The hour flew by and it was sad to leave the gorilla family, but necessary to make sure they don't get too used to humans being around. Although they seem to be pretty used to us anyway. A fantastic morning and probably the most exercise I've done in a year. The rest of the day basically just involved a kip and a beer before heading out to the town for a bite to eat. Not bad food at a local b&b but they tried to overcharge us. Apparently they've tried to do this before on a previously trip. They're not really helping themselves and only looking at the short term. Now the Oasis trucks will never go back there and pass the word around other overland trucks. The food was nice and if they hadn't tried to overcharge then they could have got a fair amount of visitors passing by from overland trips in the future.
The next day we headed back to Uganda and stayed in Kabale. A small town with a fair few internet cafes, backpacker type accommodation and a fab bakery selling donuts, various pasties, samosas, pizza and many different types of cake. Funnily enough the place was quite busy when we were staying there.
Life on the truck is varied to say the least. On early drives most of us are asleep or trying to sleep through the very bumpy roads. When we have a later start there's an amount of childish revelry going on consisting of 'piggy in the middle', trying to hop on one leg - which is quite difficult when the truck is constantly moving from left to right to avoid pot holes and bumps or having no choice but to go over them. I have to say I've stayed out of these games, mainly because I can't be arsed and prefer reading or listening to my iPod. I think the age difference is showing through.
Talking about iPods, the other day I was DJ Sam on a 7-8 hour drive. I think I might go into retirement as I had no sleep or rest really and was shattered when we eventually reached camp.
Fellow passengers on the truck so far are:
Ellena, my tent buddy and youngest amongst the group at 21. Becca, a lovely Aussie who likes a bit of a drink and gets very loud after a few of them. Chris and Alex I've mentioned in a previous post, who were also on the Masai Mara trip. Chris is a teacher and Alex is a biochemist. Tom and Sarah, also previously mentioned are a couple from Kent. Tom is an artist and does bathroom fitting to get cash and Sarah is a designer. Harriet and Kate are two 23 year olds who graduated from Cambridge with law degrees and as far as I know aren't working yet. Harriet very much likes attention. lol. Steve, 33 is another Aussie and works in Project Management as a contractor. Phil, 27 is a Business Analyst from Manchester. Sade, another Aussie also likes attention and I've no idea what she does for a living.
A good bunch.
Bye for now
Sam xx
The adventure begins, camping, Lake Nakuru
Well the 3 month overland through Eastern and Southern Africa has begun. We left Karen Camp 6:30am Saturday 29th Nov, picked a few more people up from a hotel in Nairobi then set off towards Lake Nakuru. Seems to be a great bunch most in their 20s and I am the oldest passenger so far. Great! .
The first part of the trip is a 3 week drive through Kenya to Uganda and Rwanda before heading back to Nairobi to pick up others for the journey south.
The truck (Jozi) is comfy enough. A big yellow vehicle that you can spot a mile away. It is called a truck and if anyone calls it a bus or van (Tom seems to be doing this a lot) they have to buy the crew a drink. The seats all face inwards so everyone can chat on the drives and at the moment plenty of space for luggage. Although I think it's going to be a bit of a sqeeze when the rest of the passengers join and there's 22 of us. I can see a few arguements brewing.
The scenery was great as we were driving along. A quick photo stop looking down over the Great Rift Valley and a few hours before we reached camp. I don't do much camping these days so not sure how I'll be after 3 months of it. Fed up I expect. I'm already missing my bed.
Our first campsite was great. A field on a diary farm with hot showers and nice bar. We're in several cook groups and take it in turns to set up brekkie, lunch and dinner. Was all a bit daunting at first wondering how the hell could we cook for loads of people, but Ian has been helping and fair play the meals so far have been great. I'm the only veggie.
A few beers in the evening and a few stories from a very full-on South African guy who's leading a different truck tour and a bit more up market by the sounds of it. At the end of the night we ended up doing some sort of story/dance thing pretending to be springboks and downing a shot of mint stuff. All a bit bizzare but funny.
Up and out for 6am to go on a game drive in the Lake Nakuru National Park. We were delayed around 30 mins because one of the mini buses taking us round had a flat tyre on the way. African time kicks in a little again.
The park was completely different to the Masai Mara with a definite track which vehicles have to stick to. No off-roading to get a better look at the animals. Much of the same animals but in far lesser numbers. Soo glad I visited the Mara beforehand as it was alot more amazing.
One good spot was White and Black Rhinos. Fab. We didn't get to see any of these previously so was great to see them. One looked like it was thinking whether to charge at us or not but decided against it or couldn't be bothered and plodded off away from us. Our driver said that this particular rhino had charged his vehicle several times in the past so I think we were lucky. I'm all up for a bit of excitement but a rhino charging at me is not one adrenaline rush I'd like to experience.
Hundreds if not thousands of flamingos were good to see. All standing in the shallows of the lake amongst pelicans who just seemed to be flying or waddling from one grassy patch to another and not doing much else.
Another flat tyre during the game drive and we had to get out while the driver changed it. What not to do when game driving...get out of your vehicle! So there we were staying very close to the van looking out for any animals that may take a fancy to us. Luckily this didn't happen and after what seemed like forever, a spare tyre was in place and off we went all safe and sound.
The next night we stayed in a small campsite called Silver Springs, near the Ugandan border. Very basic facilities but friendly and ok for a one nighter. Before dinner a few of us played some sort of knock out cricket type game that the Aussies knew and the truck rugby ball somehow got stuck up a very high tree, never to be brought back down to earth again. At least not while we were there.
On our next drive we crossed the border into Uganda. Here was more of an Africa I'm used to. Dusty, small stores lining the road and more colourful and traditional clothing. I loved the wildlife in Kenya but not somewhere I'd hurry back to really.
We stayed in The Red Chilli Hideaway in Kampala. A good campsite, geared for backpackers and overlanders. Free internet/wifi which was really slow now and then but ok for checking emails and facebook. Hot showers and decent toilets which I've been surprised at along the trip so far. Doesn't seem to be the 'roughing it' type of travel I was expecting. Although they may just be gently easing us into it and soon we'll be using bushes and pits. Bushes have been a neccessity for toilet stops on the drives though. Trying to hide away without any passers by getting a eyefull can be quite difficult.
That evening we went for a few bevvies at a local bar and onto a club. What can I say? Again similar to Ghana, the R&B/hip hop bump and grind dancing in full swing. I think a few of the others were a little taken aback and wondered what the hell was going on. A few others on the other hand got stuck in and had a laugh until whoever they were dancing with got a bit too friendly. A good night in all and not too late as we only stayed in the club about an hour.
The trip crew had arranged a guide to take us out. Seemed a bit handheld and I thought extortionate at $20 each (there's 12 of us), but at least we knew it would be safe and we wouldn't get lost late at night. The bar and club did seem to be in more of an industrial part of town with the driver seemingly driving round in circles. The cynical side of me thinks this may have been to make us believe they were miles away and difficult to get to when in fact they might have been only a 10 min walk.
The next day was chilled for me. A quick stop at a nearby internet cafe and some clothes washing. Stupidly I didn't have the sense to hand in a bag of washing the night before for the campsite to do. Duh!
Very early in the morning, around 5ish if my sleepy brain remembers correctly we headed towards Rwanda.
The scenery slowly changed from dusty flat fields to more forest/jungle type terrain. A quick pit stop at the equator for a few touristy pics and a cuppa at a cafe/store set up to help raise money for children with HIV/AIDS before reaching the border. Some of the craft items for sale there were beautiful, especially the paintings, but unfortunately I can't pick any up and carry them along or hope they'll reach home intact if I get them posted.
Border crossings over here haven't been too bad so far. About an hour roughly to exit one country and enter another. When leaving Uganda there was a huge queue of lorries waiting to leave. Must have been about 5 miles long and apparently it can take weeks for them to pass as the customs guys search through every single one until they are fed up and let a load through before stopping and starting the tedious checks again. Have no idea how the drivers cope with this, experience maybe, because that would just do my head in. City traffic over here and the odd delay on the roads is bad enough but having to wait around for weeks doesn't sound fun at all.
I've been wanting to come to Rwanda for years and I have to say it is one of the most beautiful countries I've ever visited. The mountainous scenery is stunning and the people friendly and curious even after the atrocity that happened in 1994. It has been hard to sit on the truck driving through the country with enough food, drink, clothes etc when many in the country have absolutely nothing and who knows what they experienced during the genocide.
Visiting the Genocide Memorial Centre in Kigali was an emotional experience for all of us. I knew what had happened, but to see videos of survivors' experiences of witnessing their family members being massacred and how they could forgive the genocidaires if only they knew who they were was truely heart-rending.
Anger was another emotion I felt regarding how little the international community did to help or even try and stop what was an absolutely horrendous act of inhumanity even though it seems many knew what might be coming. Earlier in the week I had started reading 'Shake Hands with the Devil' by Romeo Dallaire, the UN Commander who's mission was to help with the peaceful emergence of a new government following the Peace Agreement signed in Arusha. His account of the UN and international beaurocratic crap and red-tape leading up to the genocide shows that the international community was not interested in Rwanda at all as there was no strategic or natural resource to benefit them. Not a surprise really and the same thing seems to happen today. 'Any oil? No? Then we're not bothered'.
After lunch we headed to Ruhengeri for two nights, staying in a Catholic hostel. We were staying in a large dorm, so bunkbeds, hot showers (most of the time) and a little jaunt down to the town for a bite to eat. Luxury!
Not much going on in terms of wildlife. Mozzies and flies as per the norm unfortunately and not much else thankfully. I wonder how the goats, chickens and sheep are doing in Akrofu?
ttfn
Sam xx
The first part of the trip is a 3 week drive through Kenya to Uganda and Rwanda before heading back to Nairobi to pick up others for the journey south.
The truck (Jozi) is comfy enough. A big yellow vehicle that you can spot a mile away. It is called a truck and if anyone calls it a bus or van (Tom seems to be doing this a lot) they have to buy the crew a drink. The seats all face inwards so everyone can chat on the drives and at the moment plenty of space for luggage. Although I think it's going to be a bit of a sqeeze when the rest of the passengers join and there's 22 of us. I can see a few arguements brewing.
The scenery was great as we were driving along. A quick photo stop looking down over the Great Rift Valley and a few hours before we reached camp. I don't do much camping these days so not sure how I'll be after 3 months of it. Fed up I expect. I'm already missing my bed.
Our first campsite was great. A field on a diary farm with hot showers and nice bar. We're in several cook groups and take it in turns to set up brekkie, lunch and dinner. Was all a bit daunting at first wondering how the hell could we cook for loads of people, but Ian has been helping and fair play the meals so far have been great. I'm the only veggie.
A few beers in the evening and a few stories from a very full-on South African guy who's leading a different truck tour and a bit more up market by the sounds of it. At the end of the night we ended up doing some sort of story/dance thing pretending to be springboks and downing a shot of mint stuff. All a bit bizzare but funny.
Up and out for 6am to go on a game drive in the Lake Nakuru National Park. We were delayed around 30 mins because one of the mini buses taking us round had a flat tyre on the way. African time kicks in a little again.
The park was completely different to the Masai Mara with a definite track which vehicles have to stick to. No off-roading to get a better look at the animals. Much of the same animals but in far lesser numbers. Soo glad I visited the Mara beforehand as it was alot more amazing.
One good spot was White and Black Rhinos. Fab. We didn't get to see any of these previously so was great to see them. One looked like it was thinking whether to charge at us or not but decided against it or couldn't be bothered and plodded off away from us. Our driver said that this particular rhino had charged his vehicle several times in the past so I think we were lucky. I'm all up for a bit of excitement but a rhino charging at me is not one adrenaline rush I'd like to experience.
Hundreds if not thousands of flamingos were good to see. All standing in the shallows of the lake amongst pelicans who just seemed to be flying or waddling from one grassy patch to another and not doing much else.
Another flat tyre during the game drive and we had to get out while the driver changed it. What not to do when game driving...get out of your vehicle! So there we were staying very close to the van looking out for any animals that may take a fancy to us. Luckily this didn't happen and after what seemed like forever, a spare tyre was in place and off we went all safe and sound.
The next night we stayed in a small campsite called Silver Springs, near the Ugandan border. Very basic facilities but friendly and ok for a one nighter. Before dinner a few of us played some sort of knock out cricket type game that the Aussies knew and the truck rugby ball somehow got stuck up a very high tree, never to be brought back down to earth again. At least not while we were there.
On our next drive we crossed the border into Uganda. Here was more of an Africa I'm used to. Dusty, small stores lining the road and more colourful and traditional clothing. I loved the wildlife in Kenya but not somewhere I'd hurry back to really.
We stayed in The Red Chilli Hideaway in Kampala. A good campsite, geared for backpackers and overlanders. Free internet/wifi which was really slow now and then but ok for checking emails and facebook. Hot showers and decent toilets which I've been surprised at along the trip so far. Doesn't seem to be the 'roughing it' type of travel I was expecting. Although they may just be gently easing us into it and soon we'll be using bushes and pits. Bushes have been a neccessity for toilet stops on the drives though. Trying to hide away without any passers by getting a eyefull can be quite difficult.
That evening we went for a few bevvies at a local bar and onto a club. What can I say? Again similar to Ghana, the R&B/hip hop bump and grind dancing in full swing. I think a few of the others were a little taken aback and wondered what the hell was going on. A few others on the other hand got stuck in and had a laugh until whoever they were dancing with got a bit too friendly. A good night in all and not too late as we only stayed in the club about an hour.
The trip crew had arranged a guide to take us out. Seemed a bit handheld and I thought extortionate at $20 each (there's 12 of us), but at least we knew it would be safe and we wouldn't get lost late at night. The bar and club did seem to be in more of an industrial part of town with the driver seemingly driving round in circles. The cynical side of me thinks this may have been to make us believe they were miles away and difficult to get to when in fact they might have been only a 10 min walk.
The next day was chilled for me. A quick stop at a nearby internet cafe and some clothes washing. Stupidly I didn't have the sense to hand in a bag of washing the night before for the campsite to do. Duh!
Very early in the morning, around 5ish if my sleepy brain remembers correctly we headed towards Rwanda.
The scenery slowly changed from dusty flat fields to more forest/jungle type terrain. A quick pit stop at the equator for a few touristy pics and a cuppa at a cafe/store set up to help raise money for children with HIV/AIDS before reaching the border. Some of the craft items for sale there were beautiful, especially the paintings, but unfortunately I can't pick any up and carry them along or hope they'll reach home intact if I get them posted.
Border crossings over here haven't been too bad so far. About an hour roughly to exit one country and enter another. When leaving Uganda there was a huge queue of lorries waiting to leave. Must have been about 5 miles long and apparently it can take weeks for them to pass as the customs guys search through every single one until they are fed up and let a load through before stopping and starting the tedious checks again. Have no idea how the drivers cope with this, experience maybe, because that would just do my head in. City traffic over here and the odd delay on the roads is bad enough but having to wait around for weeks doesn't sound fun at all.
I've been wanting to come to Rwanda for years and I have to say it is one of the most beautiful countries I've ever visited. The mountainous scenery is stunning and the people friendly and curious even after the atrocity that happened in 1994. It has been hard to sit on the truck driving through the country with enough food, drink, clothes etc when many in the country have absolutely nothing and who knows what they experienced during the genocide.
Visiting the Genocide Memorial Centre in Kigali was an emotional experience for all of us. I knew what had happened, but to see videos of survivors' experiences of witnessing their family members being massacred and how they could forgive the genocidaires if only they knew who they were was truely heart-rending.
Anger was another emotion I felt regarding how little the international community did to help or even try and stop what was an absolutely horrendous act of inhumanity even though it seems many knew what might be coming. Earlier in the week I had started reading 'Shake Hands with the Devil' by Romeo Dallaire, the UN Commander who's mission was to help with the peaceful emergence of a new government following the Peace Agreement signed in Arusha. His account of the UN and international beaurocratic crap and red-tape leading up to the genocide shows that the international community was not interested in Rwanda at all as there was no strategic or natural resource to benefit them. Not a surprise really and the same thing seems to happen today. 'Any oil? No? Then we're not bothered'.
After lunch we headed to Ruhengeri for two nights, staying in a Catholic hostel. We were staying in a large dorm, so bunkbeds, hot showers (most of the time) and a little jaunt down to the town for a bite to eat. Luxury!
Not much going on in terms of wildlife. Mozzies and flies as per the norm unfortunately and not much else thankfully. I wonder how the goats, chickens and sheep are doing in Akrofu?
ttfn
Sam xx
Wednesday, November 24, 2010
Colourful characters, Maasai Mara and Nairobi
Staying at the Karen Camp was fine. Toilet, showers, bar, pub grub and a few expats, white Kenyan characters that occassionally pop by in an evening for a few (or more) drinks and a chat.
My first night here before the Mara trip I met a few very colourful characters in the bar:
Greg was born and breed in Kenya, his grandparents settled over here years ago. For those who know him he reminded me of Damian Longstaff. Around the same age, same mannerisms, stories, drinking and smoking and owns some sort of riding school/stables and security firm.
Father Liam (real name Patrick not surprisingly from Ireland). A missionary who previously spent 12 years in West Africa before coming to Kenya around 8 years ago. Again seems to be a big drinker and smoker.
Nick, originally from England. From what I could gather flies a small plane on contract and previously flew for the WFP in Sudan. Has been living in Tanzania for years and occasionally makes trips to Kenya. Again big smoker and drinker - seems to be common over here...
I also met a young English couple travelling in Kenya before heading to Cape Town to visit a brother and then onto India where they seem to spend a lot of time. A few tips were passed my way for when I reach there.
Chris and Alex from Oxford were on the Masai Mara trip and also on the Overland down to Cape Town. Again nice guys around 26. I think I'm likely to be one of the older passengers on this journey.
Steve is the driver, Ian the tour leader and Richard is along for this trip to learn the ropes. He's been driving on the Middle East routes and early next year will be taking over the Nairobi to Jo'Burg one. A very funny, down to earth lot, so I think there will be quite a few laughs and stories to tell at the end.
Monday Chris, Alex and myself headed off for the Masai Mara safari. Simley picked us up and dropped us at the Gametrackers office in Nairobi. Two women from Bristol were also doing a safari for a few weeks and was nice to chat while all the usual formalities were carried out.
Rufus was our driver and guide and Simon our cook (and very good he was to). Another guy, Toby (a teacher living in Saudi) joined the trip and hardly said a word the entire time. Very wierd bloke, 'special' Alex called him. Not that he wasn't intelligent, but the type of person you don't usually meet.
We headed out of Nairobi around 10:00am and stopped for lunch on the way in the Rift Valley. Was great to see part of it. Ever since studying Archeaology at Uni I've wanted to visit it and will be seeing a lot more of it on the overland journey. Fab. We arrived in the Masai Mara around 3-4ish and had a bit of a drive in the landy to see what was around. Loads of zebra, wildebeest, water buffalo, gazelle of varying kinds, elephants, giraffes, all sorts of birds which Chris was very excited about. It seems he's suddenly become a bird watcher since arriving. It was great seeing the animals shown on the various wildlife programmes back home and getting pretty close to them. I wonder if I'm too old to embark on a career as a wildlife photographer. lol
We stayed in small cabins, very basic amenities with some locals patrolling in the night for any wild animals that may wander in. Which they did, mainly elephants and baboons. Was a bit worrying going to the loo in the middle of the night. I've never peed so quick in my entire life, especially when I could hear hyenas in the distance.
Each day started around 6:30 when we would have some fried egg and toast, fruit and tea/coffee for breakfast. A few hours game drive then back to camp for lunch (salad, stew, potatoes of varying kinds and fruit) at 1. A bit of a siesta for a few hours then out again at 4ish returning 6:30-7 for dinner (rice or pasta, salad, fish, meat for the carnivores and fruit). It was good camping food and more than I had eaten in a while. lol
The first morning we headed out at 7am and again saw many of the same animals grazing and wandering about. I was surprised to still see quite a few wildebeest, as the main migration was a few months ago. Rufus did point out that there weren't many left compared to before when the entire area is full with them. The remaining ones seem to be lagging behind for some reason. Maybe they really don't want to attempt the river crossing and play british bulldog with the crocs and leaving it to the last minute. I wouldn't fancy it. Have to admit though, they don't seem to be the most intelligent of animals. Maybe the intelligent ones headed off with safety in numbers in mind.
Highlight of the morning was seeing a cheetah and her cub eating a fresh kill. Amazing. I love cheetahs and was fantastic to see them. We also saw three lionesses lazing about after a big feed and some hyenas. Hyenas give me the creeps, ever since I saw them in a night safari in Singapore and one of them stared me out. lol. Nasty things that you know would just love to have a go at you.
In the afternoon we saw a male lion and lioness resting. Suddenly the male started mating with the female. Not something I'd even thought I'd see. The lioness seemed a bit bored and it lasted all of about 15 seconds. Apparently they'll do this about 7 times an hour so it's no wonder she looked fed up. lol
The following morning we headed in a different direction to the river and saw what remained of the wildebeest who were very unfortunate in the crossing. Carcassess and vultures everywhere. Very smelling to say the least. A guard took us on a short walk a bit further up river where we saw the culprits. Huge crocodiles sunning themselves on the banks waiting for the next round. Hippos were also swimming about and they are absolutely enormous. I knew they grew to be big but bloody hell, no wonder they are one of the main human killers in Africa. Getting in between a few of them and the water you'd have no chance.
Apparently the hippos rule the waters and the crocs keep their distance. Hippos have been know to snap a croc in half with their very big and powerful jaws. Out of the water is a different matter. Slow and steady with lions sometimes attacking them.
One the way back to camp Alex spotted a very cute Serval cat. Gorgeous little thing sitting in the grass looking around.
That night there was a hell of a ruckas going on near the Massai village. Dogs barking, humans shouting and the dreaded sound of hyenas. The locals must have been trying to chase them off away from their homes and cattle. At one point there was a big splash in the river next to camp and something large running across it. Not something that lets to an easy sleep or toilet trip.
The rest of the trip was just as exciting and amazing. Really close up to an elephant herd with a little baby, more lions and cheetahs, hippos wallowing in their own feaces (another smelly sight and if I had been hungry beforehand I certainly wouldn't have been after). What has to be the higlight of the trip was seeing lionesses hunting and bringing down a wildebeest. Fantastic! Rufus hadn't seen this for a few years so I think we were very lucky. Just watching them hanker down in the grass, splitting up with two heading out to the sides and the chase. The chase didn't last long but it was amazing to watch. As soon as the prey was down the male lion was right in while the successful female kept a firm grip on the wildebeest's throat.
Unfortunately we didn't come across any Leopards or Rhinos but they are very hard to track down so hopefully later on the overland trip I'll have a chance to see them.
Thursday we headed back to Nairobi and arrived at Karen Camp around 5ish. A few drinks in the evening and chatting with a few who will be on the overland trip, a couple Tom and Sarah were staying in the same place. I'd previously been in touch with Tom via facebook. He'd set up a group page for everyone travelling.
Later in the evening I was talking with an American woman, Nancy, who had just come from Malawi. She didn't have much of a good word for the place, but then she'd been ill with dysentry for 3 weeks apparently. I'm hoping I'll enjoy it more, especially as I'll be spending my birthday and xmas there.
Nairobi is not a place I'll be in a hurry to come back to. I feel uncomfortable there, not helped by Greg having a call from the police on Sunday evening saying there had been a raid on a house compound in Karen by 12 armed robbers. Two Europeans and a security guard shot dead. Apparently it happens quite often. I know some European families have been here for generations and love the country but not a place I'd like to live. Their big houses with electric fencing and security guards. I'm more of a nice quite safe area type of girl where I don't have to worry about getting electric fencing and paying a security company to stand guard.
So in all a good start to the next part of my trip. The big 3 month overland to Jo'burg begins on the 20th Nov. What an adventure!
Until the next time
Sam x
My first night here before the Mara trip I met a few very colourful characters in the bar:
Greg was born and breed in Kenya, his grandparents settled over here years ago. For those who know him he reminded me of Damian Longstaff. Around the same age, same mannerisms, stories, drinking and smoking and owns some sort of riding school/stables and security firm.
Father Liam (real name Patrick not surprisingly from Ireland). A missionary who previously spent 12 years in West Africa before coming to Kenya around 8 years ago. Again seems to be a big drinker and smoker.
Nick, originally from England. From what I could gather flies a small plane on contract and previously flew for the WFP in Sudan. Has been living in Tanzania for years and occasionally makes trips to Kenya. Again big smoker and drinker - seems to be common over here...
I also met a young English couple travelling in Kenya before heading to Cape Town to visit a brother and then onto India where they seem to spend a lot of time. A few tips were passed my way for when I reach there.
Chris and Alex from Oxford were on the Masai Mara trip and also on the Overland down to Cape Town. Again nice guys around 26. I think I'm likely to be one of the older passengers on this journey.
Steve is the driver, Ian the tour leader and Richard is along for this trip to learn the ropes. He's been driving on the Middle East routes and early next year will be taking over the Nairobi to Jo'Burg one. A very funny, down to earth lot, so I think there will be quite a few laughs and stories to tell at the end.
Monday Chris, Alex and myself headed off for the Masai Mara safari. Simley picked us up and dropped us at the Gametrackers office in Nairobi. Two women from Bristol were also doing a safari for a few weeks and was nice to chat while all the usual formalities were carried out.
Rufus was our driver and guide and Simon our cook (and very good he was to). Another guy, Toby (a teacher living in Saudi) joined the trip and hardly said a word the entire time. Very wierd bloke, 'special' Alex called him. Not that he wasn't intelligent, but the type of person you don't usually meet.
We headed out of Nairobi around 10:00am and stopped for lunch on the way in the Rift Valley. Was great to see part of it. Ever since studying Archeaology at Uni I've wanted to visit it and will be seeing a lot more of it on the overland journey. Fab. We arrived in the Masai Mara around 3-4ish and had a bit of a drive in the landy to see what was around. Loads of zebra, wildebeest, water buffalo, gazelle of varying kinds, elephants, giraffes, all sorts of birds which Chris was very excited about. It seems he's suddenly become a bird watcher since arriving. It was great seeing the animals shown on the various wildlife programmes back home and getting pretty close to them. I wonder if I'm too old to embark on a career as a wildlife photographer. lol
We stayed in small cabins, very basic amenities with some locals patrolling in the night for any wild animals that may wander in. Which they did, mainly elephants and baboons. Was a bit worrying going to the loo in the middle of the night. I've never peed so quick in my entire life, especially when I could hear hyenas in the distance.
Each day started around 6:30 when we would have some fried egg and toast, fruit and tea/coffee for breakfast. A few hours game drive then back to camp for lunch (salad, stew, potatoes of varying kinds and fruit) at 1. A bit of a siesta for a few hours then out again at 4ish returning 6:30-7 for dinner (rice or pasta, salad, fish, meat for the carnivores and fruit). It was good camping food and more than I had eaten in a while. lol
The first morning we headed out at 7am and again saw many of the same animals grazing and wandering about. I was surprised to still see quite a few wildebeest, as the main migration was a few months ago. Rufus did point out that there weren't many left compared to before when the entire area is full with them. The remaining ones seem to be lagging behind for some reason. Maybe they really don't want to attempt the river crossing and play british bulldog with the crocs and leaving it to the last minute. I wouldn't fancy it. Have to admit though, they don't seem to be the most intelligent of animals. Maybe the intelligent ones headed off with safety in numbers in mind.
Highlight of the morning was seeing a cheetah and her cub eating a fresh kill. Amazing. I love cheetahs and was fantastic to see them. We also saw three lionesses lazing about after a big feed and some hyenas. Hyenas give me the creeps, ever since I saw them in a night safari in Singapore and one of them stared me out. lol. Nasty things that you know would just love to have a go at you.
In the afternoon we saw a male lion and lioness resting. Suddenly the male started mating with the female. Not something I'd even thought I'd see. The lioness seemed a bit bored and it lasted all of about 15 seconds. Apparently they'll do this about 7 times an hour so it's no wonder she looked fed up. lol
The following morning we headed in a different direction to the river and saw what remained of the wildebeest who were very unfortunate in the crossing. Carcassess and vultures everywhere. Very smelling to say the least. A guard took us on a short walk a bit further up river where we saw the culprits. Huge crocodiles sunning themselves on the banks waiting for the next round. Hippos were also swimming about and they are absolutely enormous. I knew they grew to be big but bloody hell, no wonder they are one of the main human killers in Africa. Getting in between a few of them and the water you'd have no chance.
Apparently the hippos rule the waters and the crocs keep their distance. Hippos have been know to snap a croc in half with their very big and powerful jaws. Out of the water is a different matter. Slow and steady with lions sometimes attacking them.
One the way back to camp Alex spotted a very cute Serval cat. Gorgeous little thing sitting in the grass looking around.
That night there was a hell of a ruckas going on near the Massai village. Dogs barking, humans shouting and the dreaded sound of hyenas. The locals must have been trying to chase them off away from their homes and cattle. At one point there was a big splash in the river next to camp and something large running across it. Not something that lets to an easy sleep or toilet trip.
The rest of the trip was just as exciting and amazing. Really close up to an elephant herd with a little baby, more lions and cheetahs, hippos wallowing in their own feaces (another smelly sight and if I had been hungry beforehand I certainly wouldn't have been after). What has to be the higlight of the trip was seeing lionesses hunting and bringing down a wildebeest. Fantastic! Rufus hadn't seen this for a few years so I think we were very lucky. Just watching them hanker down in the grass, splitting up with two heading out to the sides and the chase. The chase didn't last long but it was amazing to watch. As soon as the prey was down the male lion was right in while the successful female kept a firm grip on the wildebeest's throat.
Unfortunately we didn't come across any Leopards or Rhinos but they are very hard to track down so hopefully later on the overland trip I'll have a chance to see them.
Thursday we headed back to Nairobi and arrived at Karen Camp around 5ish. A few drinks in the evening and chatting with a few who will be on the overland trip, a couple Tom and Sarah were staying in the same place. I'd previously been in touch with Tom via facebook. He'd set up a group page for everyone travelling.
Later in the evening I was talking with an American woman, Nancy, who had just come from Malawi. She didn't have much of a good word for the place, but then she'd been ill with dysentry for 3 weeks apparently. I'm hoping I'll enjoy it more, especially as I'll be spending my birthday and xmas there.
Nairobi is not a place I'll be in a hurry to come back to. I feel uncomfortable there, not helped by Greg having a call from the police on Sunday evening saying there had been a raid on a house compound in Karen by 12 armed robbers. Two Europeans and a security guard shot dead. Apparently it happens quite often. I know some European families have been here for generations and love the country but not a place I'd like to live. Their big houses with electric fencing and security guards. I'm more of a nice quite safe area type of girl where I don't have to worry about getting electric fencing and paying a security company to stand guard.
So in all a good start to the next part of my trip. The big 3 month overland to Jo'burg begins on the 20th Nov. What an adventure!
Until the next time
Sam x
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